Flash Flood

An overnight spillage of rain meant the rivers were almost overflowing. Henry and I headed over to the Lower Roy, we knew we were going to have a good run because we could hear the river roaring from the car park. With this much water the Roy is easily one of my favourite rivers to run.
However, we didn't stop at the bottom of the Roy, we kept on going into the Spean and found that almost flat until the Railway Bridge Falls which was flowing bigger than I have ever seen it before.
I hope this is the beginning of the paddling season.

Slav Route

Today Henry and I were heading up the Ben to have look at Slav (VI,5***) route. After having a pit stop in the CIC hut we were having doubts as to whether or not were going to be drowning in spin drift. We almost changed our minds but decided to stand at the bottom of the route to make help make our decision.

We were getting dumped on by plenty of spin drift but we went for it anyway. This felt like Orion Direct all over again. Long face route and spaced out gear in some sections. The route has some brilliant situations and keeps coming right up until the end.

Will this ever winter ever end?

Henry somewhere on Slav Route

Smith's Gully ****

It was time for an early start this morning because Meagaidh isn't the shortest walk in and we wanted to be the first to the route. We only saw three other climbers throughout the entire day, two of which were heading for our route until they heard our plans.

 It was two and half hours to the bottom of the route but the weather was great and the route was looking supreme condition. The route is definetly worth every one of those stars, its possible it was given one for each pitch. The first and last pitches are the ones that stand out as just brilliant.

Henry on the First Pitch

3rd Pitch

Smoking the White Shark?

After missing an entire week of fantastic weather I was desperate to get out and take advantage of more of this winter. I was in luck because Henry had plenty of time of as well, so after a leisurely start we headed up to Aonach Mor to see what we could find.
The clag wasn't making it easy to find the routes but we started up what we thought was White Shark. It wasn't in great condition, after topping out we headed down to Sgurr Finnisg-aig Falls (Smoking the White Owl). A quick play on that then it was back down the Gondola. No pics as I left my camera at home.

Crowberry Gully

I was able to bag another Cold Climb classic today on the Buachaille. My Dad and I had picked a perfect day for it, hardly a cloud in the sky and not breath of wind either. 

We were joined by two other teams and found the ice a tad thin in places but this didn't take away anything from the really enjoyable climbing. 

Icicles hanging off waterslide slab

Looking down crowberry

Orion Face Direct

So this route has been climbed a lot this season and every other season. It's probably on been every climbers tick list since 1960 after its first ascent its been on mine for a while now. There is not much more that can be said about this route either but it is probably the best route I have and will ever climb in Britain.

When I was getting up yesterday at five in the morning I didn't think it was going to be getting home at nine at night. Walking in the weather couldn't have been better lilac skies and not breath of wind in the air. After panicking all the way up to the route about people being in front of us we couldn't believe it when we arrived there before anyone else.

We got started on the route and found the ice to be in brilliant condition but not thick enough to take any screws. It soon became apparent that getting gear and belays was going to be tricky. After a while it became apparent that it was becoming an issue. It took a long time to place protection and even longer to get good belays placed. It took us a while to realise that this was eating away at the time so before we knew it we were climbing well into the evening.

I was so glad to top out the on the summit the route didn't ease off until the top. When we hit the summit it was a long walk down to McDonald's for a Fanta Orange, I don't know why but all I could think about on the way down was a Fanta Orange.

Heading South

With winter everywhere at the moment we decided to go South, we heard the Cobbler was in great condition so we went to have a look at Recess Route. A classic of the crag but when we got there we thought that it could do with a bit more winter. So we headed route the corner and climbed Ramshead Gully IV,5*. This is one pitch of really interesting climbing that was worth the journey.

Pictures to come.