30/04/2011

A Quick Dip

After spot of bouldering today, unfortunately I am not getting any closer to finishing the problem. After pumping out I soloed a few routes on cavalry crack buttress.
Me on Heather Hat
Due to all this hot weather I decided it was time to go for a dip and headed over to the Garry with Ron and Henry.
Ron Cameron how it should be done
Henry Methold trying not to swim

27/04/2011

The Sugar Puff Kid

After spending the day in the library, I needed an escape. So I met up with Jamie and Connor at pinnacle ridge buttress. When I arrived I they had a top rop on 'Sugar Puff Kid' (E4 6a*), The routes on this buttress are really polished. The harder routes get less traffic on them but I suspect they still get the odd top rope down them.
After a few goes, I decided to have a shot on lead.
Unfortuanately it was back to the library after this. I have had a good start to the season so far three E5's and two E4's. 
Video to come soon

26/04/2011

Route II Direct

After a wee play on heather hat last night I am no closer getting the V4 there. Today we got out of college in with a enough time to go do a route on the Ben. Jamie, Craig and I headed up to Carn Dearg Buttress, the buttress looked dry and there was one team already on centurion. We wanted to get back before the shops shut so we went for Route II Direct (Severe***).
The route offered some fantastic exposure and situations then it was back to the Fort for a chippy!
Enjoying the weather

Me on the first pitch
Craig on the traverse

Jamie enjoying the sunset

22/04/2011

Tynrich Slabs

The weather is still gorgeous and the midges haven't turned up, yet! Today I went East to meet up with Jamie and Jamie, to go to one of Jamie's favourite crags. A good day was had by all and I managed to do another E5, which I was pretty chuffed about. I will need to give my skin a rest now because I don't have any left on my fingertips.

21/04/2011

Precious Cargo

Well it was another day in the library again however Stuz met me in there and was up for a wee jolly up the glen. So after banging my head off a desk for six hours I ran round to get my gear and head up the Glen.
Stuzz had his eye on Secretaries Super Direct (HVS 5a***), Stuz cruised the route with no issues.
Stuzz on the Crux Pitch oh Secretaries Super Direct (HVS 5a***)

After Secretaries we headed down to Styx Buttress to have a look at Precious Cargo (E5 6a*), this takes a direct finish to Fingertip Finale it has one great piece of protection 9 metres up to protect the crux.
Since I knew fingertip finale I just had to work the last section on top rope. However it was getting late and I couldn't get a sequence fixed in my head. I took a break and let Stuz have a shot, he made a great effort and found a hold which made the crux less of a 'do or die' move. Once Stuz came down I told myself that if I didn't do it clean we would pack up and go home. After making a clean ascent I told Stuz that it was getting a bit to dark to do the route, hoping he would agree and suggest home time, but he replied 'better do it quick then'.
Everything was going well until I went to place the gear whilst placing it my foot slipped, which helped me hold on but also shook me up. After more encouragement from Stuz I went for the Crux.
It was too dark for my camera to pick up much however if you listen carefully with the volume up you might her me top out. I think I was a tad happy so you might also hear a bad word, sorry.
video
 
Me on the crux move Precious Cargo (E5 6a*)
Caption taken from the camera.

20/04/2011

Uncertain Emotions

Johann and I headed to Creag a' Bhancair to try 'Uncertain Emotions' (7b***). After a few goes each we were agreed with the fact that it was quite hard and by mid afternoon we were spent.
So it was off to Heather Hat for a quick boulder and work on my Scot's tan.




18/04/2011

Sunburn and a Sore Back

After yesterdays lack of psyche me and Johann wanted to make up for that and have a climb fest. So Craig, Johann and I headed to Road Buttress, I started on 'The Web' (E2 5c**). After falling off the crux and landing upside down on my back, I took a wee rest while Johann went for 'Wee One' (E3 6a). The main holds Johann wanted to use were wet so he then backed off, Our climb fest was going well!
It was then Craig's turn for 'No Entry' (VS 5a*) and after going for the crux was inspired by Johann and myself and backed off. Johann then finished 'No Entry' and I had a second go at 'The Web', backed off and seconded it after Johann led the way again.
Craig's first attempt at 'No Entry' (VS 5a*)
Johann on the first moves of 'Wee One' (E3 6a)
We then stuck our tail between our legs and headed to Cavalry Crack Buttress to climb 'Versus' (E1 5b*). Then we climbed 'The Storm' (HVS 5a***) after finding the direct finish a bit too wet.

17/04/2011

PSYCHE

Or lack there of....
I met up with Kev and Johann to go play on Blacks Crag, Kev had his eye on 'Centrepiece' (E6 6b). Kev and Johann began working the route and after a few goes they decided they just weren't keen for it. We then headed over to Nameless Crag to try 'Triode' (E5 6a*). 
Kev working the route
Johann working the route

16/04/2011

Old Friends

I was back at my local crag meeting up with Dave an old friend (not known him that long he is just a friend who is old). We where at Newtyle quarry to do some Rat Running for a stag party with Nae Limits.
After the night before I am sure the guys didn't even notice they where walking forward down a cliff
After the abseiling Craig, Ewan, Shaun and I headed over to polney crag and climbed some of my old favourites starting with 'The Groove' (VS 5a****). Followed Craig up 'Cuticle Crack' (Severe) then did 'The Way Through' (E2 5c*) and finished with 'The End' (VS 5a***).
Craig seconding 'The Way Through'
Craig on the second pitch of 'The End'
Ewan and Shaun seconding their first VS

15/04/2011

Auchinstarry Quarry

Got a quick couple of routes in while down in Glasgow after seeing Peter Kay last night. I climbed slinky lizzard (HS 4b*)  Promotory Direct (HVS 5a***) and Spirogyra (VS 4c).
Now up to Dunkeld for some abseiling or Rat Running.

10/04/2011

Still Shining!

This is the first time I have been able to show Anne that Fort William does get sunny weather, sometimes. We stole my flatmates bikes and headed up Glen Nevis to enjoy the sun and have a picnic.

Gorgeous views great weather.

Our spot for a picnic.

09/04/2011

Bad Life Choices

The weather was glorious and I was meeting Kev and Johann to hopefully climb our projects. We headed up to Upper Scimitar First to watch Johann do the first ascent of 'Bad Life Choices' E7 6b. After Johann did such a great job it gave me lots of psyche for having a bash at my project.
After checking the guide book it turned out I hadn't practising the wrong route. After a successful day we headed to Lower Falls for a dip, then off to the Acintee for a pint.

08/04/2011

The Wrong Way

Kev was kind enough to give me a belay on Scimitar Buttress today. I am working a project there called fingertip finale (E4 5c). I was going to climb it today however Kev told me I was climbing the wrong line, so I learned a new sequence instead. Doh!

07/04/2011

End to the Rain

Before today the rivers were over flowing but the first sign of dry weather and Craig, Anne and I headed up to Poll Dubh to make use of the dry rock. This is hopefully the start of the good weather.


Craig and Anne on Pinnacle Ridge (severe)


03/04/2011

Paddling, Whats that?

I haven't been in a boat since November but today was the first of the River Garry releases this summer. Therefore it was time to dust off the cobwebs from my boat and get wet, I was mega keen until I felt the temperature of the water.
It was safe to say we were rather rusty but now we're just looking forward to a summer of paddling.
Dave Hills capsizing with style
Dave Parfitt looking for his boat

To check out the rest of the release dates click here.
Also my photo is now 3rd in the UKC Top 10 photo's of the week, check it out here.