Ridge Day 2

After a long night and a lack of sleep it was nice to watch a very warm sun come up. We set off at 8 again but this time knowing we had broken the back of it and had very little of the ridge left to do.





 

Breakfast on the Ridge



Craig on Bidean Druim nan Rham



The weather couldn't have been better

On Sgurr Nan Gillean the Last Munro.
I'm afraid I don't know where Craig got his sunglasses, apologies I didn't want my inbox filled with requests

Having a well earned rest

I had an absolutely brilliant two days and can't wait to go back again.

Ridge Day 1

The Cuillin Ridge is the most difficult mountaineering challenge the UK has to offer. This challenge is probably one of the most unique experiences a climber can come across. On the exposed sections of the Cuillin ridge, it has to be  accepted that no mistakes can be made. After a while this becomes metally quite tiring. Plus the fact that you are carrying your food and bivvy kit plus climbing equipment means that you have a long day ahead of you.

Starting at the first Munro

Craig climbing out of the TD gap

A long way to go

After leaving almost everything behind and armed with very little in terms of climbing gear. Craig and I set off at 8.30 to start our traverse of the ridge. We made good progress and fortunately didn't get stuck behind too many queues. We stopped for the night on the beallach before hitting Bidean Druim Nan Rham and luckily someone had left a stash of water there.

Dinner in a bag

Plan B

Craig looking out to Ardnamurchan and Ardgour

Craig on Stob Coire Nam Beith

Yesterday Craig and I had our sights set on climbing Centurion, on the Ben. However waking up this morning to find the ground soaked after a shower through the night wasn't what we had planned.

We came up with a quick bad weather plan and headed into Glencoe to do Number 3 Buttress on Stob Coire Nam Beith. This offers exposed hard scrambling, not nice when some of the rock was wet.

Da Aonagh Eagach

Today I was out with my old boss, from the chip shop I used to work in, his son alessio and Dom. They all seemed to enjoy the exposure and situations that the ridge offers. The team approaching the ridge

Only one week before college starts I'm hoping to cram in as much as possible before I start.

Back in the Fort

I have been down in Glasgow for a while finishing college work and other stuff. I arrived back yesterday and that night Guy was on the phone wanting a day on the hill. It was long overdue so it was great to be heading out.
We had made no plans because of the conditions we were looking for an easier day. Therefore we travelled light, not taking any climbing gear. At the CIC hut we decided to head for Observatory Ridge (V.Diff***) then descend down Tower Ridge. The weather wasn't as bad as expected and the rock was mainly dry.

Practice

I am wanting to do my Mountain Leader Assessment and Guy has got his Mountain Instructor Award assessment booked. So we headed out to do some practice for these qualifications. Guy, Dan and myself went to Langdale and started off by Guy doing some short roping techniques on the North East Buttress of Harrison Stickle. After topping out we headed over to Pike of Stickle to descend a Grade 2 scramble found a rock climb back up to the top , which felt about V.Diff. Then got the map and compasses out for guy to test Dan and I on our Navigation.

Crowberry Ridge

How I found myself pursuing this line of work was due to my Dad taking me into Glencoe with a book, Scrambles in Lochaber by Noel Williams, in his pocket. I would usually follow him over things like the Aonagh Eagach Ridge, North Buttress of the Buachaille and Curved Ridge.
There was a route taken out of this book because it was deemed to difficult to be a scramble, this was Crowberry Ridge. My Dad's friend had done it and found it a bit of an experience.
So my Dad acquired an old version of the book through eBay and wanted to give it a shot. The main differences being that he was to follow me this time and we were going to take a rope with us. Due to the nice clear skies we (my Dad, Lee and Myself) were able to find the start without to much difficulty. We began up the route to find it a very interesting experience (this is climbers talk for we were s#*!ing ourselves a wee bit). We kept making progress and knew we were on A route because we kept finding pegs all the way up until we topped out in the sun.


We headed down Curved Ridge and since it was a nice day I had a wee blast on Agag's Groove.

Where is the snow?

After checking the forcast and thinking it was going to be a miserable day. The my mates from college and I decided it would be a good day to go for a wee scramble up curve ridge. Once we arrivered at great gully we decided to go up north buttress instead.

Jamie Murray enjoying the exposure

Craig and Simon wondering how to get back down

Me on the approach

Expecting a horrible day in the rain it was hard to drag myself out of bed, luckily I did because the sun came out and everyone had a great day.

The Cuillen Ridge Traverse in a Day

I have heard many stories about the Cuillin Ridge, nearly all of them epics! The Cuillin Ridge traverse is revered as the one of the finest mountaineering challenges in the British Isles. Most parties will undertake the traverse over two days, with a bivouac at some point along the ridge. 

We planned a single day traverse. Our party comprised of my elderly and infirm father and a younger fitter friend of his Campbell Gibson. Both these persons had made a previous attempt at the traverse in 2006 when they had reached Am Bastier at 9pm and decided to call it a night (literally). By the time they reached the campsite at Sligachan they had been moving virtually non-stop for 16.5 hours.

It is a given that the traverse can not be done in one day if it is raining or too windy. We had given ourselves a five day window in the hope that this be sufficient to give us good weather for an attempt.

On the days leading up to our departure for Skye, the forecast did not look good. Showers and rain being the predominant weather pattern.

 

The following is based on a true story........

About 6pm Saturday night, having driven up from Glasgow that day, we arrived at Sligachan campsite. After waiting for a tremendous downpour to end we pitched our tents.

 The forecast appeared to be accurate.
Over our evening meal we held a council of war and  a decision was reached that we would see what the weather was like in the morning but in the meantime we would still set our alarm clocks for 4 am.

In a bid to keep the weight to a minimum I didn't bring my sleeping mat so didn't have the most comfortable nights sleep. However when we awoke at four o'clock to have breakfast and organize ourselves, the weather was absolutely perfect!

Sligachan campsite just before setting off.

We jumped into the car, helmets on and bum cheeks clenched, as my dad did a Louise  Hamilton (sic) round to Glenbrittle. We pulled in at Glenbrittle in a spray of gravel and a cloud of  dust and a cry of Hi Ho Silver........ The only inhabitants aware of our arrival at that ungodly hour were a few sleepy  sheep and a couple of cows. 

  

5.30am We  were off. So much for the early start!  We tiptoed along the campsite road and refrained from any conversation as a courtesy to the sleeping campers.

 

Approaching the Ridge

Heads down and we trudged steadily along the coastal path  before turning north and climbing up  into Coir a Ghrunnda. We skirted the west side of Loch Coir a Ghrunnda and made our way up to Bealach Coir a Ghrunnda were we dumped our sacks and set off  for  Garrs-bheinn.  As we approached Gars-bheinn the famous Skye mist started to close in. After retracing our steps  over Sgurr Choire Bhig and Sgurr nan Eag we eventually found ourselves at the first challange of the day, Thearclich-Dubh Gap.

 An abseil into the gap as Campbell started on one of the four dozen rolls he had packed for the day. I climbed back out the north side like a cat up a curtain. The elderly father  climbed out like a  cat on laminate flooring. I eventually managed to pull him up with the help of Campbell pushing from behind. Rather undignified but he eventually got up. After that example of fine mountaineering we set off once more heads down and plodding steadily. The miles clocked by slowly but surely. 

(Right: Abseiling into the TD gap) 

We arrived at the Inaccessible Pinnacle to see a party of six roping  up nearby. Urgent whispers (not the G. Michael number) of "keep moving" "go for it" "RUN!" and we covered the remaining ground to the Pin in a sprint which we tried to disguised as a casual walk. Made it!  I think we got there first because we started climbing first and never had to push anyone off or cut any ropes. Which is always good.  We battered up the pin and set the abseil up quickly before the angry mob gained on us. This however didn't bother Campbell he was too busy eating roll number 9. We had finished a quick snack before the other party were halfway up.

 Climbing the Inaccessible Pinnacle

At 4.30 pm the rain started and became heavy with a mix of light hail. This slowed us down considerably. The elderly one wanted to stop and put on waterproofs but I reassured him that it wasn't worth while as this was just a passing shower. Two hours later and soaked to the skin I thought he may have had a point.....  

After it had rained.

The rain finally stopped  when we approached Am Basteir and the  harnesses came out.  After some more aid climbing from the old man and some one armed climbing from Campbell (he was now on roll 28), we bagged the second last Munro. 

All that was left to do was to go up Sgurr nan Gillean and head home.  On reaching Sgurr nan Gillean we were overjoyed to have made it. The walk out was in beautiful conditions. A quiet peaceful evening with the old man singing  loudly and very out of tune as  Campbell ate the last of his rolls. 

On the last munro Sgurr Nan Gillean

Walking out

 At 1130pm we returned to Sligachan campsite and collapsed into our tents. After 18 hours of walking we had made it back to Sligachan in one piece, and Campbell ate his last roll.

Off to Skye

Late Wednesday evening I received a text message from my mate Ryan, suggesting we should take a trip to the Isle of Skye at the weekend. For anyone who does not know this island off the west coast of Scotland; Skye is the Mecca for every mountaineer, climber and hill walker living in the British Isle's. My first thought was, I need to get out of work on Sunday.

The next morning the phone rang. Ryan was wanting to leave that night, unfortunately my first thoughts weren't 'lets go!'

I was okay for the weekend because that would give me time to organize myself. Ryan informed me that the weather was good and that I wouldn't need anything, he had everything sorted down to the kitchen sink, and I just had to meet him at 7.

I phoned Anne, my girlfriend, and told her I wouldn't see her for two days. Off we went.

The back of Ryan's Ford Transit van made for very comfortable accommodation. Bed, stove, electricity and of course the kitchen sink with a working tap.

Day 1 Am Bastier


We woke up on Friday morning after spending a very comfortable night in the back of Ryan's Transit van.

After leaving my flat in a rush the previous afternoon. I didn't have time to do any food shopping. Ryan was kind enough and didn't seem bothered about sharing all of his food, which I was extremely grateful for. Living with a vegetarian, I am happy to eat a wide variety of food but there are a few exceptions. These are anything that lives close to or in the sea, nuts, Marmite, cous cous, humus and soya milk. I didn't tell Ryan this at first. When it came to breakfast that morning we had Muesli, which was full of nuts and we didn't have milk because it doesn't last as long as soya milk. It was okay because we had Marmite sandwiches for lunch, I insisted on spreading the Marmite very thin. I am not complaining about the food because I was just thankful Ryan was happy to share his even if it wasn't to my particular taste.

We headed to Am Bastier then to Sgurr Nan Gillean it was really windy which made the exposed sections even more interesting. After a quick scout around of this area we headed for dinner back at the van. The menu that night, was tuna and cous cous, which turned out to be really tasty!

Ryan on the walk in

windy conditions

Ryan on exposed sections of Sgurr nan Gillean

Day 2 Vulcan Wall

After another comfortable night, the weather turned quite bad and we changed our plan to go do a climb, Vulcan Wall HVS 5a. Ryan thought that this would give us some shelter from the wind.

After another long walk in we found the bottom of the wall.

The walk in to Sron Na Ciche

Ryan started on the first pitch and completely cruised it. I took the second pitch, the quality of the climbing was amazing and the Gabbro gives great friction.

When I reached the belay ledge, Ryan asked if the belay was any good. I told him that it was quite narrow and he asked if it was a 'one footer'. It was a 'one footer' in that it was the width of one of my feet and not 14 inches wide.

We intended to do the direct finish to the route, which goes at E2 5c. This was completely blank wall, with no cracks or features. Ryan (who has on-sighted E4 6a) didn't like the look of it and that was more than enough reason for me not to like the look of it.

Ryan on the first pitch

The one footer

Ryan on the third pitch

The walk off