Slav Route

Today Henry and I were heading up the Ben to have look at Slav (VI,5***) route. After having a pit stop in the CIC hut we were having doubts as to whether or not were going to be drowning in spin drift. We almost changed our minds but decided to stand at the bottom of the route to make help make our decision.

We were getting dumped on by plenty of spin drift but we went for it anyway. This felt like Orion Direct all over again. Long face route and spaced out gear in some sections. The route has some brilliant situations and keeps coming right up until the end.

Will this ever winter ever end?

Henry somewhere on Slav Route

Smith's Gully ****

It was time for an early start this morning because Meagaidh isn't the shortest walk in and we wanted to be the first to the route. We only saw three other climbers throughout the entire day, two of which were heading for our route until they heard our plans.

 It was two and half hours to the bottom of the route but the weather was great and the route was looking supreme condition. The route is definetly worth every one of those stars, its possible it was given one for each pitch. The first and last pitches are the ones that stand out as just brilliant.

Henry on the First Pitch

3rd Pitch

Smoking the White Shark?

After missing an entire week of fantastic weather I was desperate to get out and take advantage of more of this winter. I was in luck because Henry had plenty of time of as well, so after a leisurely start we headed up to Aonach Mor to see what we could find.
The clag wasn't making it easy to find the routes but we started up what we thought was White Shark. It wasn't in great condition, after topping out we headed down to Sgurr Finnisg-aig Falls (Smoking the White Owl). A quick play on that then it was back down the Gondola. No pics as I left my camera at home.

Crowberry Gully

I was able to bag another Cold Climb classic today on the Buachaille. My Dad and I had picked a perfect day for it, hardly a cloud in the sky and not breath of wind either. 

We were joined by two other teams and found the ice a tad thin in places but this didn't take away anything from the really enjoyable climbing. 

Icicles hanging off waterslide slab

Looking down crowberry

Orion Face Direct

So this route has been climbed a lot this season and every other season. It's probably on been every climbers tick list since 1960 after its first ascent its been on mine for a while now. There is not much more that can be said about this route either but it is probably the best route I have and will ever climb in Britain.

When I was getting up yesterday at five in the morning I didn't think it was going to be getting home at nine at night. Walking in the weather couldn't have been better lilac skies and not breath of wind in the air. After panicking all the way up to the route about people being in front of us we couldn't believe it when we arrived there before anyone else.

We got started on the route and found the ice to be in brilliant condition but not thick enough to take any screws. It soon became apparent that getting gear and belays was going to be tricky. After a while it became apparent that it was becoming an issue. It took a long time to place protection and even longer to get good belays placed. It took us a while to realise that this was eating away at the time so before we knew it we were climbing well into the evening.

I was so glad to top out the on the summit the route didn't ease off until the top. When we hit the summit it was a long walk down to McDonald's for a Fanta Orange, I don't know why but all I could think about on the way down was a Fanta Orange.

Heading South

With winter everywhere at the moment we decided to go South, we heard the Cobbler was in great condition so we went to have a look at Recess Route. A classic of the crag but when we got there we thought that it could do with a bit more winter. So we headed route the corner and climbed Ramshead Gully IV,5*. This is one pitch of really interesting climbing that was worth the journey.

Pictures to come.

All Quiet in the Corrie

Rich and I headed up for Stob Coire Nan Lochan, even though we didn't have an early start we still headed up there alone. After seconding Scabbard Chimney a while ago I was feeling good to come back to lead it.

The first pitch was an awkward pull up a thugy crack with no protection. The next pitch is an interesting well protected bit of climbing which leads up to the crux. I remember the crux being very spicy even on second. So when I looked at it this time round it looked horrible really sketchy thin ice and no obvious protection. After some deliberation I went and had a quick look and after throwing an axe into the ice I realised it was bomber. It made for a really easy climbing, the easiest V,6*** I will bag.

Rich climbing into the Chimney

Rich Climbing out of the Chimney

The final pitch

Number 6

I had to get down to Glasgow today which is why I was up at 5.30 to get a route in before I left this evening. Craig and I headed back down to Glencoe because we heard that Number 6 Gully (IV,4****) on Aonagh Dubh was in good condition. It was a short walk in and low enough to be away from any considerable avalanche hazard. Being west facing it was completely sheltered from the wind and after yesterdays fun that was a must.

We soloed up the first pitch because we weren't going to get any gear placed anyway. Then swung the leads once we got ourselves established. It's a great route but most of the fun is in the fourth pitch which luck gave to Craig.

The Aonagh Eagach Ridge

Craig starting off

Craig on the fourth pitch

Frosty Eyebrows on Crest Route

Stob Corie Nan Lochan car park was unusually quiet this morning. Even though we had an early start we thought we would be joined by a few others at least. Jamie has had his eye on Crest Route (V,6***) for a while and after a failed attempt last week he was desperate to get back for a second go. A few years ago I had also climbed the first pitches of what we thought was crest route (still not sure were we did go). We decided to escape that day since I was belaying off a single old rusty peg. I honestly never thought it would be a route that I would contemplate coming back to lead.

This morning I felt good and psyched for some hard climbing but as we approached the route doubt began to grow. Jamie did point out that the weather wasn't entirely optimal for hard climbing; low visibility, blowing a hoolie and plenty of fresh snow.

Jamie got us established on the route with an easy first pitch, which had a interestingly cheeky move at the end of it. Once I joined on the belay Jamie I was able to get a look at what we were up against, it looked good, it looked possible and it looked like it would go without too much difficulty. After climbing up an awkward flake crack you arrive at a slab which has two parallel cracks running down it and each only wide enough for an axe pick to fit in. After the slab there is a vertical groove which had steps intermittently spaced all the way up it, which I thought would be the easier bit.

After getting on top of the slab I found myself wanting some protection although I was in a precarious position. I opted for the quick fix piece of mind Bulldog (a metal hook shaped like an axe pick) over a dodgy piece of frozen turf. After I put my mind at ease I forced myself up the groove, bearing down on my axes due to the lack of footholds. I was swinging hopelessly for something which eventually came and with no other options I put my faith in my axes I committed everything to them and by tapping my feet up the wall and heaving myself over the block I managed to get over the easy bit. What followed was another ten metres of what felt like an eternity to get myself to the belay. By this time Jamie hadn't been able to move for the best part of an hour so even he admitted he was feeling the cold.

Jamie got to work on the third pitch and plugged away at it methodically digging and stepping up bit by bit as the cold crept into my body. After not moving a muscle for a long time (another hour-ish) and not getting any break from the constant wind blasting at us, it was safe to say I was cold. When I finally did get to move I was groggy and stiff. Mid crux of the pitch of the last pitch the hot aches started up and even though I wanted to get off that route I forced to stop and let the pain pass.

As soon as I topped out the wind died and the Sun came out and I was rather glad and pleased that I had managed to lead my first V,6.

Jamie pulling on the second pitch

Moving on to the third pitch

Victory shot

The obvious black line in the middle is the route we dug out.

Second Coming

I met up with Jamie and Rich in Glencoe on the way down to Bridge of Orchy. Hoping to get some shelter from the wind we headed for Creag an Socach on Beinn Dorain. After getting blasted by the wind all the way up to the crag, my psyche was none existent. However Jamie was determined to get on the route so we persevered and kept going.
In hindsight I'm glad we pushed on because the route, Second Coming, offered two interesting pitches of climbing possibly harder than the grade suggests but still well worth the hour walk in and an even quicker walk out.

Walking in

Rich seconding on the first pitch

Soggy

Jamie and I headed up to the Ben to see if we could make anything out of the thawing conditions and high winds. We headed up to Harrisons Route (IV,4**) which was in fine condition however it was snowing blocks of ice thanks to the Shroud thawing out. After getting on to the second pitch we decided it wasn't a safe place to be and headed home.

Jamie on the first pitch

Boomers

Neil and I saw no need for a early start this morning so we left at a rather sociable hour of 7.30am. Due to the late start we were keeping our options open and noticed that nobody was heading for Boomer's Requiem (V,4***).
After soloing the first pitch we used an insitu belay and I headed for the crux. It's completely vertical for seven metres and it was a case of placing two screws then holding my breath until it was over.
At the top we were able to see that there was sixteen people on Orion Direct and five people on point five.

Neil on the 3rd pitch

Looking onto the North Face

Indicator Wall

I have a full week of work lined up tomorrow so I was desperate to get one more day of climbing in. So I was heading up the Ben with Dave Buckett at 6 in the morning hoping to get to the routes before many others. On appraoch to the CIC we watched the crowds leave on force towards the crags. By the time we arrived and kitted ourselves up a few teams were at the bottom of Point 5 and one team at the bottom of Orions Direct (our choice for the day). Once we were moving up to the route the team hadn't made any progress yet so we decided to change plan and head for indicator wall (V,4***).
We topped by noon then back to the car by 2, didn't feel like a full day on the Ben.

Topping out

Dave seconding up the second pitch

Teams on Tower Ridge

Plenty of teams still heading up after we were walking off

Staghorn Gully

After a couple of big days I was looking to do something a little more chilled out so Craig and I headed up to Staghorn Gully (III***, cold climbs classic) on Creag Meagaidh. After the early start eventually every man and their dog was in the Coire, due to the fact that the conditions are great and loads of great routes are in fantastic condition.
Staghorn starts off as a big long grade II snow plod but thankfully this was well stepped out and meant we had a staircase all the way up. After looking at the North Pipe (III) we decided to do North Pipe Direct (IV,4) and meant that Craig could do his first lead at this grade.

Craig on South Pipe Direct

Climbing out the cave on the second pitch

Inside the cave on the second pitch

Walking in

Back on the Ben

The weather was still looking as great as ever when Jamie and I were walking into the route this morning but once we passed the CIC hut we were in the cloud for good. We headed up to observatory buttress and climbed Original Route (V,5***). It was another long route with the difficulty at beginning. The cloud didn't lift until we reached number four gully on the way back down. 

Jamie on the first pitch

Cost and Worth

Topping out today made me feel absolutely brilliant, there wasn't a breath of wind or a cloud in the sky. From the Ben the view stretched to the the Isle of Skye, Rum and way over Rannoch Moor to Schiehallion. Taking in the scenery and the sense of accomplishment after some hard graft on a perfect day felt great.

Although this morning I was up at 5.20am to be ready for 6. To realise that I needed to go back to the house and wasn't able to start the walk in until nearer 7. After the walk in Craig and I were standing at the bottom of Hadrian's Wall Direct (V,5***), a 300m metre climb that starts with a fifty metres of sustained vertical ice. The difficulty in the first pitch however travelling all the way up the face of the Ben makes the route feel like an adventurous day out. After topping out into most beautiful views Scotland has to offer it makes all the bad days worth every bit of misery.

Plenty of teams on the point with Hadrians on the left

On the third pitch

On the final pitch

After climbing the route I broke it down by the numbers. I have four good ice screws and one that was given to me which doesn't place that well and I rarely use unless I am in a very comfortable position to place it. Craig added 4 more good ones 3 of which he borrowed, this gave us a grand total of 9. The guide description told me that I could minus 2 for the belay at the top and one poor screw for the first belay left me with 5 good screws for fifty metres of climbing. That left me with an average of one screw every ten metres which meant that if I fell at the wrong time I would be falling a minimum of 20 metres if the screws held (the right time to fall would be right after I placed a screw). 

If had more protection and I took the time to place more protection. Would that increase the risk of me getting tired and actually falling? Having been successful on the ascent this shouldn't matter however could not being able to afford the £50 for an ice screw make a person take unnecessary risk?
I suppose this is taken into account before attempting the route but the increasing cost of clothing makes me think what I'm actually getting for my money, after forking out over £700 for a set of Haglofs salopettes, gloves and a jacket which hasn't lasted a  full season. My boots which I got for a steal over six years ago, never really fitted properly, but to replace them will cost £420. Furthermore my ropes which I probably should retire soon look like they will cost over another £200, if I'm lucky. That doesn't include all the other pieces of equipment I have gathered over the years makes me think what it is really worth?

Last Minute

This morning I woke up with the intention of going for a walk in Glen Etive. After getting in touch with Johann late in the day I was able to get some plans together to go climbing. Because it was so late we headed up to Aonnach Mor.
After looking at the cornice on easy gully we abseiled down Morwind (III,4). It was looking quite thin but climbable, so I had a bash and found it an enjoyable route. Although the second pitch had lost a lot of snow and probably wasn't in great condition to be climbed but we still had finish off the route.

Abbing down the route

Stunning views

Vanishing Gully and The Curtain



 Ben and I had a late start on the Ben today, not leaving the car park until 9am. We intended to do some of the routes lower down so we didn't have to worry about starting so late. Ben was keen to do Vanishing Gully (V,5), a route i had already done, however I didn't share the same enthusiasm for it. Due to the late start there was a lack of options and no one else on our route so decided to go for it. While on it we were watching team after team on The Curtain.

So after climbing down 1934 route we headed over and climbed The Curtain. Both routes were in great condition and were a true pleasure to climb.

 

 

 

Ben Cooling on the 2nd pitch of Vanishing Gully



Ben on the first pitch of the Curtain

Route 1

I was up the Ben with Rich and Jamie again however this time Rich had a specific route on his mind. We raced up to Carn Dearg Buttress to try and beat the many weekend warriors heading up to that area. We managed to get the route to ourselves, then Rich got stuck in.
The Route 1 (VI,6***) follows a series of chimneys which eventually get narrow enough to not fit a person through them comfortably. Rich did some fantastic climbing on not very well protected verglassed rock. Five metres from the top out Rich had to call it quits because of the lack of protection and the fact that the verglass wasn't giving him any options we had to back off. We still had a great experience but I don't know if I will be in a rush to try it again though.  


Rich on the first pitch.
This wasn't the narrow chimney

Rich tackling the second pitch

The Ben looking in really good nick. That might change tomorrow

We are on the bottom left.
Photo Courtesy of Max Hunter





The Message

After not much success in the west yesterday Jamie and I decided to go east this time and meet up with Ben in the Norries (Northern Corries). There was plenty of snow over in the Cairngorms and by the time we arrived climbers and skiers had already assembled in force.
We headed in to the Mess of Pattage to have a look at The Message (IV,6). One team got there before us, which is expected on a Saturday,  but they didn't hang around for long.
Great route with three quality pitches.

Jamie on the crux pitch

Ben seconding the crux

Ben on the last pitch