North West

So I spent my weekend up in Reiff climbing. After a later start we used our work bus for a 3 hour journey up to the rock. There was eight of us in total and we headed straight to the pinnacle area. Sam and myself got on 'westering home' (E1 5b**), then Sam made good work of 'Earth Shaker' (E2 6a**) which had a great start. I then had a go on Immaculate Deception (E1 5b**) which had some hard initial moves then eased off.
After a break Sam and I spent a while soloing some of the easier routes and just enjoying the Sun and the grippy rock. We finished on 'Sip from the wine of youth again' (HVS 5a**) and went looking for a different climbing area. Didn't have the energy to keep going, so we called it a day.
After a good pub meal and a night in the Buckingham Palace of tents we went to the West Buttresss of  Stac Pollaidh and climbed 'Jack the Ripper' (E1 5b**) which had lots of dubious rock but good climbing on exposed situations. By the team we got to the last pitch the rain started and had we had to climb the crux in the rain, which took some enjoyment away and added some scariness.

 

Tri-Cep-Chord?

It was a scorcher today and I was on Aonach Dubh. The weather was supposed to break later in the day o it was good to make use of the weather before it changed. Lawrence and I wanted to have a go on Trichord (HVS 5a*). I don't think we stuck completely to the right line, we may have strayed onto the easier pitches of Triceptor but we still had a good time.

On the second pitch.

Lawrence on the walk off.

No Midge Yet





Guy Steven on The Web (E2 5c**)

Finishing early from work today meant I had time to make use of the dry conditions. So I met up with Guy in the Glen and who had a shot on The Web. Then we headed to after crag  and I climbed what I thought was Rubberface but turned out to be Sauer (VS 4c).
Midgies haven't come out yet but it wont be long before they do.

Creag Dubh

I was desperate to get out and climb this morning. As the weather forecast seemed to have missed the mark because I had nothing but blue sky and sun greeting me through the curtains. So I spent the morning looking for a climbing partner, that wasn't hung over from the previous night.
Eventually Sam threw his things together and picked me up then we headed to Creag Dubh.
After I realised I forgot my camera Sam and I started Phellatio (HVS 5a**). Once we did that we moved like a Man on Fire (E1 5b*) because we thought it was starting to rain. Luckily it didn't but there was still Gouttes d'Eau (e2 5b**) on most of the routes.
It was time to get out of there so we headed back to the fort. My prediction is that the next time I get a chance to climb it will be midge season.

Summer is Coming

During work today we were getting trained by the BTO (British Trust for Ornithology) on how to recognise birds. Not much was left of the winter and there was a team doing a rock route on Douglas boulder and Carn Dearg Buttress looked bone dry as well.
After work I threw my kit in the back of the car and headed down the glen to get a route in before midge season kicks in. The glen was still busy and had plenty teams making the most of the longer nights.
I met up with Sam and Allen and had a quick play on Storm, which I have done many times now but I never been bored of it.

Sam Leading the Crux

Allen seconding

First routes of the season

Jamie and I headed up to Aonagh Mor this morning to get my first winter route of the year in. I have spent my winter practicing for my Winter Mountain Leader, which I passed but I haven't been able to get out climbing this entire winter.
So I was desperate to get out and use the tools. At the gondola station we were informed we might be walking down to the winds increasing. Then during the walk in we got a shout from Davie asking if we want to get some routes done in the glen.
We felt guilty about leaving the mountain on a blue sky day but the wind was making us think we wanted to enjoy the sun.
We met up with Davie in the Glen and started ticking some routes.

Me on Phantom Slab (VS 4c***)

Me on Half Sheet (HVS 4c) great route on Repton Buttress deserves a few stars

Jamie topping out on Three Pines

Fun in the Sun

Last night I was phoning round desperately trying to find a climbing partner. The weather was going to be stunning and the midges are still not out yet so I was desperate not to miss the opportunity to get on the rock.
Eventually Neil got back to me and we planned to head into the Glen. We started off 'Sues climb' (HVS 5b*) on the River Walls, the first pitch was really dirty and covered in green slime. However the second pitch had plenty of good clean rock and come interesting moves to top out on.
After this we headed over to Gorge Crag so I could have a look at 'Plague of Blazes' (E2 5b***). I have been wanting to climb this for a long time but it is wet on the driest of days. So finding it on a dry day is pretty difficult. I was glad to get on it because it was one of the better climbs I have ever done. It keeps coming and had loads of interest all the way up the route.
Unfortunately my camera isn't working very well so I didn't get any pictures of the route or the amazing weather we had in the fort.

Sunglasses and Sun Cream!

After looking out the window this morning I was rather unmotivated to get out. Everything was still wet from the night before and I couldn't get any paddling partners. By the afternoon a heatwave had moved over the Fort and everything was dry.

Luckily I got response from Craig so we headed down the Glen for hot rock. We started on Promises (Hard Severe 4b**) to warm up, then I climbed Rubber Face (E1 5b**) which could do with some more traffic.

Craig on Secretaries Direct (Severe)

On Twitch (E1 5b)

We kept heading up the way toward Secretaries Buttress for Craig to do the first pitch of Secretaries Direct (Severe***) and for me to do Twitch (E1 5b*).

A great days cragging and all was going well until I was walking back to the car when I slipped and noticed that I wasn't going to have a soft landing. So whilst falling down the side of the hill I managed to inform Craig that 'this was going to hurt'. Luckily wasn't as bad as it could have been but I do have a nice bruise on my knee for my efforts.

Clippin

Kenny and I headed over to Dingwall in search of some dry rock. We found it at Moy Rock which is a Conglomerate South facing sport crag. There was a few showers that went through but not enough rain to stop us.

As it was the start of the season we were trying to get the mileage in so we repeated a few routes on top rope.

But we climbed Black Streak (6a+), The Dark Side (6c), Little Teaser (6b+) and attempted the Seer (7b).

Back on Rock!

The rain has stopped, the sun has come out and the rock is dry! Niel and I headed down the Glen for a quick blast.

We jumped on Calvary Crack buttress and warmed up by joining two routes together.  The first pitch of Storm then on to Drizzle. Then we jumped onto Dundee Buttress and I led Dundee Weaver (HVS).

Only two routes but it has got me psyched for the rock season!

Aonach Dubh

After looking at the clouds on Ben Nevis. We thought it might be a good idea to change plan and head down to Glen Coe. After starting late we warmed up on Weeping Wall Route (severe) then we headed up to Hesitation (HVS 5a**). The start of this is tricky to find but offered some cool situations on the second pitch.

Craig on Weeping Wall

Felt great to be on rock again.

Blood, Sweat and Tears

Johann and I gave ourselves an early start, because Johann was working at 5, and headed back to the Buachaille. We were hoping to head up to Slime Wall but unfortunately the cloud base was sitting right on Slime Wall so we opted for Aonach Dubh instead.
Due to the current climate the walk in was much sweatier than normal. While walking in we saw a team on our intended route Crocodile (E3 5c***). Which was handy for getting all the beta.

Johann on the first Pitch

After Johann did a great job of completing the route, the drama began to unfold. On reaching the first runner I struggled to get it out. After some gentle manipulation I managed to get the nut to start moving. To get it out though, I realised I had to push it from the bottom up in a twisting fashion and to do this I had to squeeze myself into the corner, with my face directly above the stuck nut.
With my nut key in hand, I pulled so much that when the nut gave in. It popped out with such force that I punched myself in the face. This resulted in me placing the nut key straight into my forehead and the nut straight into my eye. I didn't start properly crying until I saw the blood on my hands.

Laughing after my lucky escape!

Don't ask how but I still managed to climb the route.

Once I got home I had some mail waiting for me from Destination Vinyl. They make personalised stickers for all sorts of things. They're really good quality and not expensive, check them out.

Hiding in the Shade

The weather is still melting us up here so me and Johann thought it would be a good idea to hide in the shade. We headed for Tunnel Wall on the Bauchaille to go and fail on the hardest 7b in Scotland.

Looking down the wall

Ridge Day 2

After a long night and a lack of sleep it was nice to watch a very warm sun come up. We set off at 8 again but this time knowing we had broken the back of it and had very little of the ridge left to do.





 

Breakfast on the Ridge



Craig on Bidean Druim nan Rham



The weather couldn't have been better

On Sgurr Nan Gillean the Last Munro.
I'm afraid I don't know where Craig got his sunglasses, apologies I didn't want my inbox filled with requests

Having a well earned rest

I had an absolutely brilliant two days and can't wait to go back again.

Ridge Day 1

The Cuillin Ridge is the most difficult mountaineering challenge the UK has to offer. This challenge is probably one of the most unique experiences a climber can come across. On the exposed sections of the Cuillin ridge, it has to be  accepted that no mistakes can be made. After a while this becomes metally quite tiring. Plus the fact that you are carrying your food and bivvy kit plus climbing equipment means that you have a long day ahead of you.

Starting at the first Munro

Craig climbing out of the TD gap

A long way to go

After leaving almost everything behind and armed with very little in terms of climbing gear. Craig and I set off at 8.30 to start our traverse of the ridge. We made good progress and fortunately didn't get stuck behind too many queues. We stopped for the night on the beallach before hitting Bidean Druim Nan Rham and luckily someone had left a stash of water there.

Dinner in a bag

Skye High

We arrived in Sligachan last night after noticing the weather was looking rather spectacular. Craig and I met up with Guy and headed to the Cioch. We started our day with Cioch Grooves (HVS 5a**), then craig took us to the top of the Cioch. We finished with possibly one of the best routes I have ever climbed, Integrity (VS 4c****). This rounded of the day nicely then it was back down to the text to prepare for the traverse.

Guy Steven on Cioch Grooves

Craig McKay on the first pitch of Integrity with the Cioch in the background

Scots Tan

I was down in the Glen but this time with Kev, Dave and Craig. The we were melting again which was not helping us climb. We started on Flying Dutchman then Sun bathed. Then headed up to Pine buttress and sunbathed some more we attempted some easy routes but we were all just desperate for shade and cold drinks.

Cranking Hard

Craig on the second pitch of Flying Dutch Man (severe)

After getting melted I thought it would be a good idea to cool off so I headed out to the Garry with Bridget, Greer, Ron and Oscar. After which we had to head back for the Nevis Canoe Club AGM.

Ready for the Garry

Scorcher!

Me and Dave headed to Poll Dubh for some more sun and some warm rock. Dave showed me a hidden gem called Krowt (E1 5b**) This is a great route and isn't like the climbing you would normally find down the Glen. After this Dave had a go on The Old Wall (VS ***). Then it was necessary to take a siesta after which I met up with Craig and Guy and we headed for Cavalry Crack and did Storm Direct just before the sun went down.

Me on the middle pitch with Jamie B on the last pitch

Creag Melt

Dave and I headed out to Creag Dubh and got caught in the sun trap. We thought we would start off easy with King Bee Direct (HVS 5a***). The heat was almost unbearable and slowed down our progress. I went for Strapadicktomi (E1 5a***)which is a great line but very bold, with a good chance of ground out potential. We finished on Inbred then escaped the Sun.

Dave enjoying the second pitch of Inbred

The Long Reach

The weather in lochaber was rather different to the usual we get in these parts. Which as good because I had a day off, climbing partners and a plan! We took the long drive down to the bottom of Glen Etive and walked to the slabs in t-shirts.
The route was bone dry and gave us some fantastic situations and climbing. I think the slabs has to be one of my favourite climbing venues.

Looking for a way through

Neil finding his feet