28/06/2009

Lake District - Borrowdale

This was the first day of my week in the lakedistrict, this was following an invite from my mate Guy. The idea is to spend a week in the lakes and a week in Wales. This was my first day back on trad for a while and it is nice to know I can still climb.


We had a great start to our trip we visited black crag and climbed some quality routes. We warmed up on Mortician (HVS 5a***), whilst watching a climber take a nice whip off an E3 dislocating his shoulder. We then had a go on Raindrop (E1 5b***) this was a great climb for me because I didn't have to do the crux!
We moved onto shepherds buttress when the rain threatened us and I took my time getting up M.G.C. (E2 5c**). This was another great climb with some pokey moves.


The rain aproaching from Derwent water.

Guy on the second pitch of Mortician (HVS 5a ***) Black Crag

Guy on the last belay of Raindrop (E1 5b***) Black Crag

15/06/2009

The Cuillen Ridge Traverse in a Day

I have heard many stories about the Cuillin Ridge, nearly all of them epics! The Cuillin Ridge traverse is revered as the one of the finest mountaineering challenges in the British Isles. Most parties will undertake the traverse over two days, with a bivouac at some point along the ridge. 
We planned a single day traverse. Our party comprised of my elderly and infirm father and a younger fitter friend of his Campbell Gibson. Both these persons had made a previous attempt at the traverse in 2006 when they had reached Am Bastier at 9pm and decided to call it a night (literally). By the time they reached the campsite at Sligachan they had been moving virtually non-stop for 16.5 hours.

It is a given that the traverse can not be done in one day if it is raining or too windy. We had given ourselves a five day window in the hope that this be sufficient to give us good weather for an attempt.
On the days leading up to our departure for Skye, the forecast did not look good. Showers and rain being the predominant weather pattern.
 
The following is based on a true story........

About 6pm Saturday night, having driven up from Glasgow that day, we arrived at Sligachan campsite. After waiting for a tremendous downpour to end we pitched our tents.
 The forecast appeared to be accurate.
Over our evening meal we held a council of war and  a decision was reached that we would see what the weather was like in the morning but in the meantime we would still set our alarm clocks for 4 am.
In a bid to keep the weight to a minimum I didn't bring my sleeping mat so didn't have the most comfortable nights sleep. However when we awoke at four o'clock to have breakfast and organize ourselves, the weather was absolutely perfect!
Sligachan campsite just before setting off.

We jumped into the car, helmets on and bum cheeks clenched, as my dad did a Louise  Hamilton (sic) round to Glenbrittle. We pulled in at Glenbrittle in a spray of gravel and a cloud of  dust and a cry of Hi Ho Silver........ The only inhabitants aware of our arrival at that ungodly hour were a few sleepy  sheep and a couple of cows. 
  
5.30am We  were off. So much for the early start!  We tiptoed along the campsite road and refrained from any conversation as a courtesy to the sleeping campers.
 
Approaching the Ridge
Heads down and we trudged steadily along the coastal path  before turning north and climbing up  into Coir a Ghrunnda. We skirted the west side of Loch Coir a Ghrunnda and made our way up to Bealach Coir a Ghrunnda were we dumped our sacks and set off  for  Garrs-bheinn.  As we approached Gars-bheinn the famous Skye mist started to close in. After retracing our steps  over Sgurr Choire Bhig and Sgurr nan Eag we eventually found ourselves at the first challange of the day, Thearclich-Dubh Gap.
 An abseil into the gap as Campbell started on one of the four dozen rolls he had packed for the day. I climbed back out the north side like a cat up a curtain. The elderly father  climbed out like a  cat on laminate flooring. I eventually managed to pull him up with the help of Campbell pushing from behind. Rather undignified but he eventually got up. After that example of fine mountaineering we set off once more heads down and plodding steadily. The miles clocked by slowly but surely. 
(Right: Abseiling into the TD gap) 



We arrived at the Inaccessible Pinnacle to see a party of six roping  up nearby. Urgent whispers (not the G. Michael number) of "keep moving" "go for it" "RUN!" and we covered the remaining ground to the Pin in a sprint which we tried to disguised as a casual walk. Made it!  I think we got there first because we started climbing first and never had to push anyone off or cut any ropes. Which is always good.  We battered up the pin and set the abseil up quickly before the angry mob gained on us. This however didn't bother Campbell he was too busy eating roll number 9. We had finished a quick snack before the other party were halfway up.

 Climbing the Inaccessible Pinnacle

At 4.30 pm the rain started and became heavy with a mix of light hail. This slowed us down considerably. The elderly one wanted to stop and put on waterproofs but I reassured him that it wasn't worth while as this was just a passing shower. Two hours later and soaked to the skin I thought he may have had a point.....  
After it had rained.
The rain finally stopped  when we approached Am Basteir and the  harnesses came out.  After some more aid climbing from the old man and some one armed climbing from Campbell (he was now on roll 28), we bagged the second last Munro. 
All that was left to do was to go up Sgurr nan Gillean and head home.  On reaching Sgurr nan Gillean we were overjoyed to have made it. The walk out was in beautiful conditions. A quiet peaceful evening with the old man singing  loudly and very out of tune as  Campbell ate the last of his rolls. 

On the last munro Sgurr Nan Gillean

Walking out
 At 1130pm we returned to Sligachan campsite and collapsed into our tents. After 18 hours of walking we had made it back to Sligachan in one piece, and Campbell ate his last roll.

11/06/2009

Perth Canoe Club




Stuart Burton Surfing at the Weir


Me
I was out at Stanley again with Guy and Jamie (blownawaylandyachts.co.uk) and the Perth Canoe Club. Just doing the usual practicing taily's and surfing. I had a major breakthrough in my surfing, I actually surfed. The rivers were pretty low but that didn't stop us having fun.

05/06/2009

Glen Ogle


Ryan Glass working the moves on Off the beaten track F8a*** (P.Thornburn 1992)

Thursday night Ryan and myself decided to go to Glen Ogle. Ryan informed me that even when it rains the crag doesn't get wet because it overhangs. 
So at lunchtime today we arrived at glen ogle, after the walk in I had a pretty sore stomach, which I thought would go away after lunch. However this was not the case because I couldn't even finnish my lunch. 
After doing a bit of warming up we continued our 'warm up' on Old Wives Tail F6b, this has some hard first moves, after this I wasn't feeling much better. 
Ryan then went and led Metal Guru F6c. I went for the flash on this route, after taking a long rest I went for the crux moves. At this point I was fighting a war on two fronts trying not to fall off and trying to keep the contents of my stomach in my stomach. I literally fought to the final move and lost the battle. 
Feeling very rough I decided to stop and give Ryan a belay on his summer project. 

04/06/2009

Stanley



Every wednesday night I have been meeting up with to the Perth Canoe Club at Stanley for some Kayaking on the Tay. 
The past few days of sunshine meant the water was nice and warm for me to learn how to do a taily (this is when you get your boat to stick vertically out of the water). By the end of the night I was able to do 1 taily every 30 attempts. 
My success rate wasn't a problem for me that night. The fact that I lost my kag and forgot my paddle, was a problem. Luckily Beaton was there to save the day.

video
My attempt at a taily 
video
Ross Orr cartwheeling down the weir