21/04/2011

Precious Cargo

Well it was another day in the library again however Stuz met me in there and was up for a wee jolly up the glen. So after banging my head off a desk for six hours I ran round to get my gear and head up the Glen.
Stuzz had his eye on Secretaries Super Direct (HVS 5a***), Stuz cruised the route with no issues.
Stuzz on the Crux Pitch oh Secretaries Super Direct (HVS 5a***)

After Secretaries we headed down to Styx Buttress to have a look at Precious Cargo (E5 6a*), this takes a direct finish to Fingertip Finale it has one great piece of protection 9 metres up to protect the crux.
Since I knew fingertip finale I just had to work the last section on top rope. However it was getting late and I couldn't get a sequence fixed in my head. I took a break and let Stuz have a shot, he made a great effort and found a hold which made the crux less of a 'do or die' move. Once Stuz came down I told myself that if I didn't do it clean we would pack up and go home. After making a clean ascent I told Stuz that it was getting a bit to dark to do the route, hoping he would agree and suggest home time, but he replied 'better do it quick then'.
Everything was going well until I went to place the gear whilst placing it my foot slipped, which helped me hold on but also shook me up. After more encouragement from Stuz I went for the Crux.
It was too dark for my camera to pick up much however if you listen carefully with the volume up you might her me top out. I think I was a tad happy so you might also hear a bad word, sorry.
video
 
Me on the crux move Precious Cargo (E5 6a*)
Caption taken from the camera.

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