29/03/2011

Fingertip Finale

After college Craig, Jamie and I headed to Poll Dubh again, but this time to the lower Scimitar Buttress. After doing 'Where the Mood Takes Me' Kev told me to get on the routes on this crag. We played around on a top rope for the rest of the day working the moves on 'Fingertip Finale' (E4 5c*). This is completely different in style to 'Where the Mood Takes Me'. Instead of being a bold short couple of moves with no protection. It has one piece of 'protection' (using the term losely) in the form of a micro wire, which is a good five to six metres up and doesn't really protect the crux moves. Plus it is much more sustained climbing but there is a rest before the crux.
My right hand is where the first bit of protection would be
I can climb the route on top rope but I am finding it hard to justify whether or not to do it on lead. It isn't a matter of being physically capable more a matter of being mentally capable. One slip, one wrong hand placement or a small gap in concentration, well I'm not going to be dead. However a good couple of broken bones and like my Dad reminds me I am not covered by BUPA.
Left hand now where my right was and still a lot of climbing to do
On the other hand I can't stop thinking about the route and I think it will haunt me until I do it.

No comments:

Post a Comment