26/03/2011

Where the Mood Takes Me

I was in Poll Dubh today with Kev, Johann, Alex and Dot. It was the usual story of standing on the road looking for dry patches of rock all over the Glen.
Johann was working on a project on Upper Scimitar. We all headed up there to hope for dryness and play on a top rope. Luckily the crag was dry and the weather was quite breezy so it gave for good conditions.
Where the Mood Takes Me E5 6a*
Photo Courtesy of Dorota Bankowska

Looking hopefull (left to right) Me, Alex, Kev, Dave and Johann (Photo Courtesy of Dorota Bankowska)
Upper Scimitar Buttress before Johann's attempt 

Johann was on the project straight away watching him I could tell I was way out of my league but we all had a bash at it. After falling off every move I realized I wasn't going to be getting anywhere. Thats when Kev and Alex suggested trying the E5 6a* called 'Where the Mood Takes Me'. I climbed it first time on top rope and was told I had to lead it. The sheer precariousness  of the route gave me no desire what so ever to lead it. Plus the fact that it must be soloed because there is no way of protecting the route. Then Alex went up and used a really nice sequence which took away the uncertainty of whether it could be done or not. The only problem being that I had no excuses not to do the route.
Whilst this was happening Johann had linked his route three times and couldn't decide weather to go for it or not. However I had made my mind up and found myself comitting to the crux knowing full well that it can't be messed up. The crux was short lived, four moves and it was all over and I had just climbed my first E5.
Then I was walking back down to the road to get Johann some crash pads so he could try his route. Dave also showed up with some pads of his own and also helped Johann test the fall for him.

video

Dave and Johann testing the fall

After a test fall of his own Johann was comitted to his route and on reaching for the crux hold he looked for his landing spot and took a big fall bouncing of the mats, laughing with relief and ready to give it a go another day.
It was then up to Blacks Crag to belay Kev on an E6 he was working but the rain started as as soon as he got on the route.

Dave working his latest project
We then decided to go and meet up with Dave again at High Crag to get some shelter from the rain. Dave was also working on a project, which looked physically impossible but he was managing it.
Also one of my pictures made the top ten on UKC check it out here also please give it 5 stars. 

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