31/05/2012

Busy Times on the Garry

I was on the river Garry with Nevis Canoe Club again today. We were joined by a lot of paddlers from Inverness and also by  the midgies who were out in force. It was unbareable even on the river they were swarming.
I also brought my flat mate along for her first taste of river paddling. Although most of it was experienced from underneath the water she still had a great time.
Busy Times at the play spot
Dave Getting Wet as Usual

Heather Penman's first shot on the river

29/05/2012

Blood, Sweat and Tears

Johann and I gave ourselves an early start, because Johann was working at 5, and headed back to the Buachaille. We were hoping to head up to Slime Wall but unfortunately the cloud base was sitting right on Slime Wall so we opted for Aonach Dubh instead.
Due to the current climate the walk in was much sweatier than normal. While walking in we saw a team on our intended route Crocodile (E3 5c***). Which was handy for getting all the beta.
Johann on the first Pitch
After Johann did a great job of completing the route, the drama began to unfold. On reaching the first runner I struggled to get it out. After some gentle manipulation I managed to get the nut to start moving. To get it out though, I realised I had to push it from the bottom up in a twisting fashion and to do this I had to squeeze myself into the corner, with my face directly above the stuck nut.
With my nut key in hand, I pulled so much that when the nut gave in. It popped out with such force that I punched myself in the face. This resulted in me placing the nut key straight into my forehead and the nut straight into my eye. I didn't start properly crying until I saw the blood on my hands.

Laughing after my lucky escape!
Don't ask how but I still managed to climb the route.

Once I got home I had some mail waiting for me from Destination Vinyl. They make personalised stickers for all sorts of things. They're really good quality and not expensive, check them out.

28/05/2012

Hiding in the Shade

The weather is still melting us up here so me and Johann thought it would be a good idea to hide in the shade. We headed for Tunnel Wall on the Bauchaille to go and fail on the hardest 7b in Scotland.

Looking down the wall


25/05/2012

Melting

I worked up a sweat while hanging out the washing this morning so I thought it would be a good idea to wait until the evening before heading out today. I was wrong it was just as hot as it was in the morning so I headed to heather hat for some low intensity climbing.

Trying not to melt off

24/05/2012

Ridge Day 2

After a long night and a lack of sleep it was nice to watch a very warm sun come up. We set off at 8 again but this time knowing we had broken the back of it and had very little of the ridge left to do.


 
Breakfast on the Ridge

Craig on Bidean Druim nan Rham

The weather couldn't have been better


On Sgurr Nan Gillean the Last Munro.
I'm afraid I don't know where Craig got his sunglasses, apologies I didn't want my inbox filled with requests

Having a well earned rest
I had an absolutely brilliant two days and can't wait to go back again.

23/05/2012

Ridge Day 1

The Cuillin Ridge is the most difficult mountaineering challenge the UK has to offer. This challenge is probably one of the most unique experiences a climber can come across. On the exposed sections of the Cuillin ridge, it has to be  accepted that no mistakes can be made. After a while this becomes metally quite tiring. Plus the fact that you are carrying your food and bivvy kit plus climbing equipment means that you have a long day ahead of you.

Starting at the first Munro

Craig climbing out of the TD gap

A long way to go
After leaving almost everything behind and armed with very little in terms of climbing gear. Craig and I set off at 8.30 to start our traverse of the ridge. We made good progress and fortunately didn't get stuck behind too many queues. We stopped for the night on the beallach before hitting Bidean Druim Nan Rham and luckily someone had left a stash of water there.

Dinner in a bag

22/05/2012

Skye High

We arrived in Sligachan last night after noticing the weather was looking rather spectacular. Craig and I met up with Guy and headed to the Cioch. We started our day with Cioch Grooves (HVS 5a**), then craig took us to the top of the Cioch. We finished with possibly one of the best routes I have ever climbed, Integrity (VS 4c****). This rounded of the day nicely then it was back down to the text to prepare for the traverse.


Guy Steven on Cioch Grooves

Craig McKay on the first pitch of Integrity with the Cioch in the background

10/05/2012

Nevis Canoe Club

As of last week at the Nevis Canoe Club AGM, I was made the new club chairman. I am really excited about this and hope to get more people involved in the club and also the sport. So please check out the Facebook page and the Club's Blog.
It began today with our now weekly trips to the River Garry. Dave, Ron, Russell and I had a good time on the river and we're looking forward to the next run.
Doing the usual on the Garry

I've also started a summer contract for Outward Bound so my extra cirricular activities might slow down a tad!

03/05/2012

Scots Tan

I was down in the Glen but this time with Kev, Dave and Craig. The we were melting again which was not helping us climb. We started on Flying Dutchman then Sun bathed. Then headed up to Pine buttress and sunbathed some more we attempted some easy routes but we were all just desperate for shade and cold drinks.
Cranking Hard

Craig on the second pitch of Flying Dutch Man (severe)
After getting melted I thought it would be a good idea to cool off so I headed out to the Garry with Bridget, Greer, Ron and Oscar. After which we had to head back for the Nevis Canoe Club AGM.

Ready for the Garry

02/05/2012

Scorcher!

Me and Dave headed to Poll Dubh for some more sun and some warm rock. Dave showed me a hidden gem called Krowt (E1 5b**) This is a great route and isn't like the climbing you would normally find down the Glen. After this Dave had a go on The Old Wall (VS ***). Then it was necessary to take a siesta after which I met up with Craig and Guy and we headed for Cavalry Crack and did Storm Direct just before the sun went down.

Me on the middle pitch with Jamie B on the last pitch

01/05/2012

Creag Melt

Dave and I headed out to Creag Dubh and got caught in the sun trap. We thought we would start off easy with King Bee Direct (HVS 5a***). The heat was almost unbearable and slowed down our progress. I went for Strapadicktomi (E1 5a***)which is a great line but very bold, with a good chance of ground out potential. We finished on Inbred then escaped the Sun.

Dave enjoying the second pitch of Inbred