On the approach to Carn Dearg Buttress it seemed to get steeper and steeper as our eyes got wider and wider. Once directly underneath the buttress I could see the line quite clearly as my friends consulted the guidebook for other options.
Craig on the first pitch
The first pitch is a nice fifteen metre crack at 4c, the hard moves are short lived. This sets you up nicely in the sun for the second pitch, which goes at 5a. Once you have left the big sun lounger ledge. You find yourself in the cold shade again with thirty five metres of climbing ahead. The protection is plentiful all the way up the route. However I had to remind myself not to place too much, so I would have enough protection to last the whole pitch. This makes the climbing very exciting. Once the belay was set up Craig and Bridget started climbing and I had a chance to relax until I felt the rope go tight and caught a glimpse of Bridget swinging through the air. Once Craig arrived at the belay he began to get very intimate with a rock on the belay, caressing and holding it ever so gently. By the time Bridget arrived Craig was now rolling a cigarette with one hand as the other was still caressing the rock.
Craig fighting his way up the crux pitch
The next two pitches are graded 4b and are really pleasant. The climbing then gets exciting again with the final 5a pitch. This has some awesome moves that head out through overhangs which lean out over the entire rock face. Craig came prepared to the belay stance with pre-rolled cigarettes, one behind each ear and smoking one on the way up.
Craig after climbing the second 5a pitch
Me on the last pitch
Trying to find the route
The route took a bit longer than expected but it did mean that we were able to enjoy the sunset on the way down to the car. A big thanks to Bridget for taking and getting all these photographs to me.
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